An African Adventure: Day 5 – Zambia and the Devil’s Pool

Where and when: Victoria Falls, Zambia, 17 September 2025

Having seen Victoria falls from Zimbabwe yesterday, I had planned to explore the falls from the Zambia side. This would include going to the Devil’s Pool – a natural pool located on the edge of Victoria Falls on the Zambian side, accessible only through a guided tour to Livingstone Island.

You can only access Devil’s Pool in the dry season (~mid-August to ~mid-January) when water levels are low enough, so I decided to go for it on this visit. 

I booked a group tour via GetYourGuide on which included transport to and from the hotel in Zimbabwe.

Into Zambia

0910: Pick up at hotel and drive to Zimbabwe border post.

At the border you have to get out of the vehicle, go through Zimbabwe immigration to get the exit stamp on the passport. The tour company had arranged a second driver to drive me from this border post, across the bridge to the Zambia border post.

0930: Next you go through Zambia immigration and enter into Zambia. There is a third driver and a vehicle to drive me from the border to the Livingstone Island launch site.

Livingstone Island Launch Site

0950: Arrive at Livingstone launch site. This includes paperwork absolving the tour company of any responsibility for anything that might happen.

The tour company provides you with towels and you can rent watershoes if needed. Having done the experience, I highly recommend you do hire them (or bring your own).

1015: As you complete the paperwork and get towels and shoes sorted, you are put onto groups. Our group of 7 is the next to depart for Livingstone island.

Livingstone Island

1025: After a thrilling 10 minute speed boat ride, we are on Livingstone Island. The island is located on the Zambezi River on top of Victoria falls. It was named after David Livingstone who was the first European to see the falls.

A plaque marks the spot from which Livingstone saw the falls for the first time.

You can also get a closer look at the Zambia side of the falls. It is a different view of the falls from here, but as you are standing on top of the falls, you can’t actually see a lot.

1035: It’s time for our adventure at the Devil’s Pool. We lock away valuables (they have lockable trunks on the island), change into swimsuits and go. We have two guides to escort us across the water. We also order what we want for breakfast (which is included in the tour price) when we get back.

Devil’s Pool

To get to the Devil’s Pool, we have to walk across some rocks to start with and wade across the river – water comes upto chest height (and I am 5’2″). We all go in a group holding each others hands. There is also a rope across the river that you can hold onto. Underneath the water it is quite rocky and the watershoes really pays off.  If you want to take your photo at the Devil’s pool, the guides will take your phone and/or camera equipment in a waterproof bag so you don’t have to worry about carrying it.

1050: We are at Devil’s pool. There’s quite a large rocky area. We all pick a nice spot and sit down on the rocks. The guides hand back the phones to us so we can take photos whilst we wait for our turn in the pool.

The pool a about 3 m wide and 4m deep. When it is your turn, you hand your phone to one of the guides (to take photos), slide into the pool and float/swim across to the rock ledge. There is a rope to hold onto, and the guides will help you across if you want to as well.  

The guides will take photos of you sitting down, lying down and looking up/down and sideways. The whole thing takes a total of 3 minutes. Then you get back out of the pool and sit on the rocks and wait for the rest of you group to finish.

The pool is about 4m deep so you can’t really touch the bottom. There are also some little fish in the pool. One of the people in our group had some cuts on the leg and the fish really went for her, but otherwise it was ok.

When you see the Devil’s Pool from the Zimbabwe side, it looks scary, but when you are on the other side on top of the falls, you can’t actually see the drop. You can only see the water dissapearing into the depth when you are at the edge, lying down and looking over, but you only get to do that for a few seconds.

Once everyone in the group had their chance in the the pool, we head back, the same way we came. This time, the more confident swimmers are given the opportunity to enjoy the water more and swim across rather than walk across if they would like.

1150: By the time we are back and change clothes, the porridge I ordered earlier is waiting for me.

Overall, the tour was a brilliant experience. It was organised seamlessly from the first pickup at the hotel. The guides are excellent from the point you set foot in the water to until you get back out. There are 3 guides for each group; one in the pool, one to take photos and one to watch over and help you wade across. Everyone gets their 3 minute in the pool, so it isn’t as scary as it looks. Everyone in the group was really nice and supportive as well which made it for a really great experience.

Tips for Visiting Devil’s Pool

• Only go on this activity if you are a strong and confident swimmer. Some experience in wild swimming would be good too (I spent my childhood doing a lot of wild swimming, which made this experience a lot easier)
• You also need to be ok on a fast speedboat ride (only for 5 to 10 minutes though).
• If you are going from the Zimbabwe side, book a tour that includes transport, as you need 3 vehicles to get you from the hotel in Zimbabwe to the Livingstone Island launch site.
• Wear your swimsuit underneath. There are changing facilities on the island, but these are limited.
• Bring your own watershoes or hire some at the launch site.
• There is a lot of of sitting and waiting in the sun, so take sunscreen and a hat.
• If you have cuts or scrapes on your legs or arms covers these with a plaster to stop the fish nibbling.
• I went for the “morning breeze” tour and we got some amazing rainbows and a great breakfast. Another person in the group went on the “Afternoon tea” tour and the food spread did look better,   but I am not sure if you get the rainbows.
• Listen to the guides and do exactly as they say – they have done this hundreds of times before so they know the falls really well.

1215: It’s time to leave Livingstone Island. Back on the boat. 

On the way back we see some Hippos in the water.  There are Hippos and crocodiles in the Zambezi river. Thankfully they don’t go anywhere near the falls as the water is shallow and rapid.

Back to Zimbabwe

1245: On the way back across the border. The tour bus makes stop at the Royal Livingstone hotel and we see the very first giraffes on this trip. The Livingstone Hotel is in the middle of a national park, so animals roam freely in its grounds.

The border crossings are the same as before (but in reverse) and there is a bit of a queue at each, but it worked OK.

1325: Back at hotel.  I spent the afternoon exploring the shops around the hotel.

In Zimbabwe, all the prices in shops, restaurants and hotels are in USD. There are some beautiful handicrafts, but they are very expensive. I usually only buy mugs as souvernirs and the cheapest mug I could find was $18.