An African Adventure: Day 6 – Vic Falls to Elephant Sands

When and where: On the road to Elephant Sands, 18 September 2025

0740: We are officially on the road and it is an early start from Victoria falls, Zimbabwe. We are heading to Elephant Sands Lodge near Nata, Botswana – a drive of about 320 km.

0800: Before we head towards Botswana, we make a quick detour to stop at the Victoria Falls wildlife Trust. One of the local organisations supported by Intrepid Travel.

This incredible organization rescues and rehabilitates animals, while actively mitigating human-wildlife conflicts in the region. We learned about innovative strategies locals use: vuvuzelas are used to deter lions from encroaching on human settlements, and chilli-based deterrents keep elephants safe from retaliatory harm while protecting local crops.

0845: After visiting the Wildlife Trust we are on our way to the border with botwana. On the way we see a number of wild animals on the side of the road.

Crossing into Botswana

1000: Arrive at Zimbabwe-Botswana border post at Kazangula. Although it is only 10 am in the morning, there is a sizeable queue and it takes about an hour to get through. Many groups who take day trips from Vic falls to Botswana to visit the Chobe National Park use this border post, so it is quite busy.

Botswana is also trying to keep foot and mouth disease at bay, so at the border all our shoes and tires of the vehicle have to be disinfected.

Tip: If travelling in Botswana, take all your shoes in a separate bag, so they can be easy accessed at foot and mouth control checkpoints.

1110: We are in Botswana! First, a short break at the local supermarket to get lunch and exchange money to local the curreny, Pula. 

1150: On the way again.

On the way, the guide gave us a quick overview of Botswana.

Botswana’s is a land locked country in Southern Africa, bordered by Namibia, Zambia, Zimbabwe, and South Africa. It is best known for the Okavango Delta, (a UNESCO world heritage site) and many national parks with thriving wildlife.

Botswana has also become one of the World’s top diamond producers, which fuels a stable economy and relatively high living standards in Africa. Diverse ethnic groups like Batswana, Basarwa (San/Bushmen), and Bakalanga shape its culture. Botswana is also known for low-impact Tourism, which favours low visitor numbers to protect wildlife and habitats, but this means that visiting Botswana is relatively expensive compared to other African countries.

1440: After nearly 3 hours in the road, there is a second foot and mouth control check point. But we are nearly at our destination.

At Elephant Sands

1500: We are at Elephant Sands. This is a hotel and campsite in the middle of a 16000 hectare private reserve. The guide explained that the reserve owner put in a bore hole on the reserve. This was the only water for miles and Elephants started to come in, so they built a hotel around it.

The scenery that greeted us was amazing. There were already a dozen elephants around the water. They would come in small family groups of 4 to 8 to have a drink, enjoy the water, and leave again in their groups.

The chalets are built around the waterhole. They are canvas tents, with good modern conveniences. There is a bathroom with a good toilet and shower, comfortable beds and a charging point. Wifi is available at the bar/restaurant area. There is no aircon, but it is not really an issue as the temperature drops after dark.

The reserve and the hotel is totally unfenced, so elephants really do roam anywhere and everywhere. This was the only rule at the hotel – don’t get in the way of the elephants. And don’t walk around after dark. After sunset the hotel staff ferry guests to and from there rooms in jeeps.

A close encounter

I don’t think I’ve ever been so close to wild elephants in my life. After checking in and unpacking, I was closing up my glamping tent, ready to head back to the main restaurant, when I noticed a herd of about 8 elephants leaving the waterhole. They moved with that slow, deliberate grace only elephants have. They were heading away from my tent, nevertheless, I decided to wait, not wanting to cross paths as they made their way out. But then something unexpected happened. The lead elephant suddenly changed direction, turning straight toward me. Within seconds, the entire group followed, padding silently past my tent. There I stood, frozen in awe, watching giants glide by just a few steps from my door.

A nature walk

1630: Once the elephants had passed and the dust settled, I joined the others for a nature walk. The local guide gathered us together before setting out. He spoke firmly but kindly, laying down the rules: stay close and walk in single file, move quietly, and if we meet any animals, don’t run — just freeze. I remember noticing the shotgun slung over his shoulder, a quiet reminder that out here, we were visitors in someone else’s world. Then we stepped out onto the open land, the crunch of dry earth beneath our boots and the vast Botswana wilderness stretching endlessly ahead.

During the walk, the guide pointed out many plants and other notable things in the bush.

An evening with Elephants

1800: We headed back to the lodge, in time to watch the sunset.

There were dozens of elephants at the waterhole now. As we sat down to dinner, the air was thick with the sound of splashing and soft rumbles. A few of the younger elephants were full of energy — shoving each other and trumpeting in delight. Every so often, one of the older matriarchs would step in with a low, warning rumble, restoring order with calm authority.

2100: As we headed to our rooms after dinner, the elephants stayed by the water late into the night.

As I fell asleep listening to their noises, I reflected. We came here to watch the elephants, but who’s to say they didn’t come here to watch us?