Buenos Aires to Rio Day 4: Iguazu Falls from Argentina

Where and When: Iguazu Falls, Argentina 27 February 2024

0730: We leave the hotel early and cross the border into Argentina. An early start is necessary to avoid the queues at the border crossing. It also pays to start early as in the summer months the temperature gets very hot later in the day. Unlike the previous day, we don’t need to get out of the vehicle and queue in person as Argentina have a special lane for day visitors to Iguazu from Brazil.

0830: At the park entrance. The Iguazu national park in Argentina covers an area of over 650 square kilometers. In addition to the Iguazu Falls, the park is also home to many indigenous flora and fauna.

The park has several “circuits” from which you can explore the falls. A mini-train takes us from the park entrance to the starting point. 

We start with the upper circuit, which takes us over the top of the falls. You can get really close to the water, but as you are at the top, you can’t see the water falling down. But there are still plenty of spectacular view points.

1015: Upper circuit completed and we have a much needed ice cream break. The temperatures are mid 30’s (Celsius) and it is only mid-morning.

1030: We start on the lower circuit – this is a circuit set lower down, and allows you the see the falling water (and much prettier views, in my opinion) But you are further away from the water.

Unfortunately, the walkways for the third circuit had been washed away by floods a few months before our visit, so we were unable to explore this part of the falls – which was especially dissapointing as this circuit takes you closest to the largest part of the falls, “The Devil’s Throat”.

1145: Lunch at hotel Gran Melia Iguazu. This is the only hotel in the Iguazu National Park on the Argentinian side. The Brazilian side has Belmontd Hotel das Cataratas, but I think the views from Gran Melia are better.

The hotel is expensive, but the views make it completely worth while. You also have the added advantage of being able to see the falls early morning before many of the tourists arrive.

1245: After lunch, we head over to the pickup point for our zodiac boat ride to the foot of the falls.  From the pickup point we get on trucks that take us on a 30 minute journey through the jungle to the boat docks.

At the docks, we are given life jackets and waterproof bags to keep our valuables dry. We all get on the boat and we are off!

The speedboat takes us on a thrilling ride upriver towards the falls, but that is just the start. As you get closer to the foot of the falls, the calm river becomes a swirling rapid and the surroundings become very misty.

Up until this point, we were allowed to keep our cameras out and take photos. The crew tells us to put any non-water proof cameras away and double check our waterproof bags are properly closed. When the crew start to zip up their heavy duty rain jackets and take hold of the sides of the boat you realise things are about to get serious.

The boat takes us very close to the Salto St Martin (but not quite under it, as that probably would have sunk the boat), and we are throughly soaked from top to toe (regardless of whether you are wearing waterproof clothing or not).

The boat captain does a fast about turn and then we head under one of the smaller falls and we get thoroughly drenched, again! The force of the water is so strong that I am pushed from my seat to the next one. It is like going on a thrilling roller coaster whilst getting sprayed with a fire hose.

Only when we see the back of the boat is filled with about a foot of water we realise how much water has been dumped on us. Any worries about a sinking boat is soon alleviated as the water drains away.

After a few more handbrake turns (that’s what it felt like) we are back on our way to the dock. The whole ride lasts about 30 minutes and it was one of the most exhilarating experiences of the whole trip.

Tips for the Zodiac Ride at Iguazu

1. Don’t worry about getting wet on this ride-because it is unavoidable. Don’t bother with rain jackets or ponchos. Instead, bring a complete change of clothes (including underwear) and change in to the fresh clothes afterwards.

2. Don’t worry about keeping your valuables (and change of clothes) dry. The waterproof bag provided by the boat company is very heavy duty and large enough to fit a small rucksack. As long as you pack  and close it properly (they show you how to do this on the boat), everything should stay dry.  There are no lockers or anything to keep your valuables, so as an extra precaution, leave anything you don’t need for the day either at the hotel or in your vehicle.

3. Remember to put your shoes in the waterproof bag when you are on the boat. Many people got caught out by this and had to head back with wet shoes and socks. 

4. There are a fair amount of steps to get down to the boat (and back up) so be mindful of this before you sign on to the boat trip.

5. If you are not a fan of roller coasters or have a fear of water,  I would not recommend this. The ride is fun, but also not for the faint hearted.

6. When you are on the boat the crew will take GoPro pictures and videos. These need to be collected and paid for at the boat dock (some people thought they would be at the park entrance and got caught out).

7. The truck ride to and from the boat is about 30 minutes each way and you are not sitting under any cover. So take a hat and plenty of sunscreen.

Soon we are back at the dock, and hand back the life jackets and head back. There is a washroom nearby for anyone who want to change out of the wet gear. Soon we are back on the trucks and making our way back to the drop off point.

On the way back we see a Tapir! A real, live one crossing the road infront of our truck. Tapirs are South America’s largest native land mammal, with adults ranging in size from 300-700 pounds. The one we saw was the size of a small hippo. We didn’t need to be told what a lucky sighting this was, especially given that it was the middle of the day.

1530: We are done for the day at the park – good timing too, as it starts to rain. 

On the plan for the rest of today was a visit to the indigenous Guarani community. The 1986 film “The Mission” was set among the Guarani community at Iguazu Falls. Unfortunately, because of the rain, the track to their village is inaccessible. So unfortunately have to cancel the visit.

1630: Back at hotel. 

It has been a great day. Iguzu has gone straight to the top 3 of my travel memories and to the top of the league for waterfalls. I have seen Niagra and Gullfoss in Iceland, and Athabsaca in Canada which are impressive in their own way, but what makes Iguazu special? 

• The size –  In terms of the area covered by the waterfalls, there is simply no comparison.  The Iguazu river falls over a vast area, and over several levels creating 275 waterfalls in total.
• The view – There are probably as many viewpoints at Iguazu as there are falls (if not more so). You can see them from various angels, distances and heights. 
• The area surrounding Iguazu falls is in a nature reserve park, home to many flora and fauna. There are no shops or vehicles. So you are truly enjoying unspoilt nature at its finest.

1900: Dinner at Benditos Foz de Iguazu which has typical Brazilian cuisine. Another early night as we are heading to Rio de Janeiro tomorrow.

What I would do differently on a return visit to Iguazu

• I would plan to spend at least three days here. As the rains are so unpredictable, plans need to change at the last minutes so it would help to have some slack in the schedule.
• Visit Guarani community – we couldn’t do this this time because of the rain, so a definite must for next time.
• Helicopter ride – another one missed out because of the rain, so a must for next time.
• Devil’s throat – the walkway to Devil’s Throat was washed away, so I would love to go back when it is restored.
• Stay at Gran Melia hotel – the hotel was wonderful, not just for the lunch and the view, but it looked like a great place to relax for a couple of days.
• Visit Paraguay – the Iguazu falls are located between the border of Brazil and Argentina, but it is also very close to Paraguay. You can make a day trip to Paraguay from here. So that’s on the list for next time.

Have you been to Iguazu Falls? What did you think? Leave a comment below and let me know.