Japan Day 6: Nara deer park and Great Buddha

Where and When: Nara, Japan, 12 October 2024

Today, we are leaving Kyoto behind and heading to Nara, which is famous for the largest bronze Buddha statue in the World.

From Kyoto, we take the local Kinetsu-Nara line to Kinetsu-Nara Station. The journey takes about 45 minutes.

Tip: There are two stations in Nara. Kinetsu-Nara Station is in the centre of town and very close to the park and the temple. The JR-Nara Station is further 15 minute walk away from the centre.

The park is just a few minutes from the station exit, and so are the deer.

The deer by the side of the road

The Nara Park is over 600 hectares and have over 1000 wild deer. The deer are considered to be messengers from god and have revered status in Japan as well as being protected by law.

The deer, although wild, are well used to being given biscuits by visitors. There are sellers throughout the park selling deer crackers (200 yen per pack). As soon as you open a pack, the deer surround you very quickly. Some of them can get impatient if you take took long to handout biscuits and might even headbutt you.

Nara park is also home to “Todaiji” (“Great Eastern Temple”) which is one of Japan’s most famous and historically significant temples. The temple was constructed in 752 AD.

Along the approach to Todaiji stands the Nandaimon Gate, a large wooden gate watched over by two fierce looking statues. Representing the Nio Guardian Kings, the statues are designated national treasures together with the gate itself.

Nandaimon Gate

Todaiji’s main hall houses the Daibutsu (“Great Buddha”), the largest bronze statue of Buddha in Japan.  This is one of the largest wooden buildings in the world.  The building dates back to 1709, when it was rebuilt following a fire that burnt down the previous hall.

The 16 meters tall, seated statue represents Vairocana Buddha and is flanked by two Bodhisattva statues.

The original temple had the main hall and two pagodas 100 meters tall either side. The pagodas were also destroyed by fire a number of years ago.  Inside the hall you can see a 1:50 scale replica of these original temple complex.

1:50 scale replica of the original temple
Statues of guardians

In the hall, one of the wooden columns behind the statue, has a hole at the base. This hole is said to be the same size as the nostril of the Buddha statue. If you can squeeze yourself through this hole, you are assured of enlightenment. When we visited there was a long line of visitors (mostly children) waiting to have a go.

Squeeze yourself through the hole at the bottom of the pillar to be assured of enlightenment

There is also an exact replica of a “shibi” – a decorative gold coloured roof time placed on each end of the roof of the main hall. It is 3.33m high and weighs 1.7 tonnes.

Side view of the Buddha statues

There are a number of shrines dotted around the park. After visiting the main hall, we decided to visit a few other shrines in the vicinity.

There are more deer further into the park as well. Although they are keen to receive deer crackers, they are less bold and less aggresive compared to those at the entrances to the park.

We spent a few hours exploring the park. It was a Sunday, and there were many Japanese enjoying picnics in the park and relaxing. 

Although the Great Buddha statues was very impressive, what I will remember Nara for is the deer, and the peaceful coexistence between man and animal. During our whole time in the park, the deer wandered around freely and unbothered. I didn’t see anyone trying to hurt them or trying to feed them anything other than deer crackers. The deer for their part, could get a little impatient if you didn’t get the biscuits out in time, but once they realised you’d run out of biscuits, they’d leave you alone.

1600: It had been quite a long day, but we found a bit of time to wander down the shopping street near Kinetsu-Nara Station, before getting the train to our next stop, Osaka.

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