Where and when: UK, March 2026
Having travelled on sleeper trains in many parts of the world—including Europe, China, Russia and Egypt—there was one famous overnight train that had somehow escaped me: the Caledonian Sleeper.
The main reason was simple. Living in the Midlands, taking the sleeper traditionally meant travelling into central London first, only to head back north again. It never really made sense. That changed when the Caledonian Sleeper announced it would begin stopping at Birmingham from January 2026. Suddenly, the journey became much more appealing.
With that in mind, we booked a weekend trip to Aberdeen.
The Caledonian Sleeper operates from London and splits into three routes serving Fort William, Inverness and Aberdeen. Having already visited Fort William and Inverness, Aberdeen seemed like the obvious choice.
Outbound Journey: Birmingham to Aberdeen
Our train was scheduled to depart Birmingham International at 10:42pm. We arrived with plenty of time to spare. The ticket includes access to the first-class lounge, although unfortunately the lounge closes at 8pm, making it unavailable for sleeper passengers boarding later in the evening.
For the outbound journey, we booked a Club Twin cabin. This includes two bunk beds, a washbasin, and a private toilet and shower.
The train arrived on time and we headed to our designated carriage. At the door we were asked to wait in the vestibule while the carriage host checked tickets, delivered a safety briefing and handed out cabin keys.
This was where the experience got off to a disappointing start.
On other sleeper trains I’ve travelled on, boarding has felt more like checking into a hotel. Staff welcome you aboard, escort you to your cabin, explain the facilities and often ask about breakfast preferences. Here, there was none of that. Six of passengers who boarded the carriage at Birmibgham found themselves squeezed into the tiny entrance lobby of the carriage while the train departed and the ticket checking process continued. It took about 10 minutes (during which dozen or so other passengers were crossing the lobby) for the manager to explain everything and to gove us the we cabin keys.
The Cabin
Fortunately, once inside the cabin, things improved dramatically.
The rolling stock is modern and feels almost brand new. The beds were comfortable, dressed in crisp white bedding with quality pillows and duvets. Each cabin has individual temperature controls (which we didn’t realise until the morning, so the cabin was really hot during the night).
One of the standout features was the abundance of charging points. Between USB sockets, power outlets and cleverly positioned shelves, there was plenty of space for phones, tablets, cameras and other gadgets. Unlike some sleeper trains I’ve experienced, everything could be charged overnight without any compromise.
Each bunk also has its own reading light, making it easy for one passenger to stay awake without disturbing the other.
The Shower Room
The en-suite bathroom is compact but surprisingly functional.
The toilet lid when closed becomes the floor of the shower. While it sounds unusual, it works well enough. More importantly, the shower itself was excellent, with strong water pressure and plenty of hot water.
Fluffy white towels, shower gel and soap are all provided.
There is also a sleeper kit containing an eye mask and earplugs.
We were also given breakfast slips to fill out. We could have breakfast in the restaurant car, delivered to the cabin or as a takeaway. There was plenty of choice from a full Scottish breakfast to continental.
I headed to the restaurant car, but it was really busy and standing room only. As we already had dinner before boarding, we decided to head back to the cabin.
Breakfast
The following morning we headed to the lounge car for breakfast.
I had expected it to be busy, but it was remarkably quiet. The restaurant manager explained why. Overnight, the train had carried passengers for Fort William, Inverness and Aberdeen. Near Edinburgh, the train splits into separate sections, each continuing to its final destination with restaurant car attached.
As we were now travelling only with Aberdeen-bound passengers, the atmosphere was far more relaxed.
Breakfast arrived quickly, although it wasn’t particularly memorable. The food was a little dry and lacking in flavour. The tea, however, was excellent.
Scheduled arrival time was 7:50am, although staff informed us we would arrive around twenty minutes early. From that point onwards, staff seemed eager to remind everyone of the approaching arrival. Every few minutes someone appeared to ask whether we had finished breakfast or needed anything else. While undoubtedly well intentioned, it did make the experience feel slightly rushed.
Soon afterwards we rolled into Aberdeen and stepped off the train.
Overall, it had been an enjoyable journey, somewhat let down by inconsistent customer service.
Return Journey: Aberdeen to Birmingham
After spending two days exploring Aberdeen, it was time to head home.
We arrived at Aberdeen station around an hour before departure. The waiting room was a much better experience than Birmingham. Although unstaffed, access was quickly granted remotely (via an intercom) after showing our tickets.
Inside was a bright, comfortable lounge overlooking the station concourse. Complimentary hot drinks, cold drinks and snacks were available, along with toilets and showers.
Boarding began around thirty minutes before departure.
This time, everything felt completely different.
A different carriage host greeted us on the platform, checked our tickets, explained the arrangements and handed over the cabin key. It was exactly the kind of welcome I had expected on the outward journey.
The Club Double Cabin
For the return leg, I upgraded to a Club Double cabin.
The layout is very similar to the twin room, except the bunk beds are replaced with a proper double bed. This makes the cabin feel significantly more spacious. There is even art on the walls.
Despite some inconsistent service, particularly on the outward journey, I genuinely enjoyed travelling on the Caledonian Sleeper.
Additional amenities include upgraded toiletries, chocolates and a few souvenir touches. It costs more, but if you’re travelling as a couple, the extra space is certainly appreciated.
Dinner and Breakfast
This time we headed straight to the lounge car after boarding.
Again, the experience was much better. We were warmly welcomed and found plenty of available seating.
As we hadn’t eaten beforehand, we decided to try dinner. The macaroni cheese was excellent—easily one of the best versions I’ve had—and paired nicely with a drink while watching the darkness roll past outside.
For breakfast, we opted for the takeaway option as Birmingham arrival was scheduled for around 0620 and neither of us fancied an early trip to the restaurant car.
Exactly thirty minutes before arrival, a cheerful member of staff knocked on our door with our breakfast boxes. Bacon sandwiches, tea and other items were neatly packed in easy-to-carry containers.
When it was time to leave, she even helped with luggage and wished us a good morning.
It was a much better end to the journey.
Is the Caledonian Sleeper Worth It?
The honest answer depends on what you’re looking for.
From a purely financial perspective, the sleeper costs more than driving. For our trip, driving would have required fuel plus a hotel night somewhere en route, whereas the sleeper effectively combines transport and accommodation.
In our case, the sleeper probably cost around £100–£200 more than the equivalent driving and hotel combination, depending on the type of accommodation chosen.
What you are really paying for is time. Instead of spending Friday and Monday travelling, the overnight train allowed us to maximise our weekend. A four-day trip effectively became a three-day trip with very little daytime lost to transport.
A Tip for First-Time Travellers
If you haven’t visited Fort William before, I would recommend choosing that route over Aberdeen. The scenery waiting outside your window in the morning is far more dramatic, with mountains, lochs and some of Scotland’s most spectacular landscapes. The train also arrives later in the morning, giving you more time to enjoy breakfast and the overall sleeper experience. The downside is that it tends to be the most popular route and can feel busier.
If boarding at Birmingham, eat before boarding as the restaurant car is really busy when it gets to Birmingham.
Final Thoughts
The cabins are comfortable, the train itself is excellent, and there is something uniquely satisfying about falling asleep in one city and waking up hundreds of miles away in another.
Would I say it’s worth doing? Absolutely.
Would I do it again?
Probably not. For future trips to Scotland, I’d most likely drive.
But if you’re looking to experience one of Britain’s most iconic rail journeys, the Caledonian Sleeper is certainly worth trying at least once.
Diary of a Tourist 