Jaffna Day 2: Exploring Nagadeepa and Jaffna City

Where and when: Jaffna, Sri Lanka, January 2026

Nagadeepa/Nainathivu Island

On our second day in Jaffna, we set off early, heading towards ‘Nagadeepa’ or ‘Nainathivu’— a small island just off the coast of the peninsula. The journey itself is part of the experience as the landscape is very different to anywhere else in Sri Lanka. The Jaffna peninsula is made up of a series of interconnected islands in the shallow sea. You travel across a chain islands, stitched together by road bridges, until you get to the jetty at one of the outermost islands, Kurikkaduwan island.

Road across the shallow seat – on the way to Nagadeepa

From there, it’s a 10 minute boat ride. Boats run every half hour (on the hour and at half past), and before long we were gliding across calm waters toward something sacred.

Nagadeepa is home to two important religious sites, sitting side by side yet belonging to different faiths.

First, we visited the Nagadeepa Buddhist Temple, a place wrapped in legend. It’s believed that Lord Buddha visited this tiny island on his second trip to Sri Lanka, mediating in a dispute between two kings fighting over a jewel-encrusted throne. For Sri Lankan Buddhists, this is one of the most sacred sites in the country. Due to the civil war in Sri Lanka, it was not possible to visit Nagadeepa during my childhood. So I felt quite emotional during this first visit to Naga deepa.

As with any other Buddhist temple in Sri Lanka, there are a few customs to observe: no photos or videos are allowed inside the temple and all must remove headgear and shoes.

A short walk away lies the Nagapooshani Amman Temple — a striking Hindu kovil that feels vibrant in an entirely different way. The architecture is intricate and colourful, with towering details that draw your eyes upward.

Inside, the space opens up beautifully, customs on entry are very similar to the Buddhist temple, no photos or videos are allowed, all must remove headgear and shoes, and additionally, men must enter without shirts. It’s one of the most sacred Hindu sites in the region, and you can feel that reverence in the air.

Rio Icecream

By the time we made our way back to Jaffna city, the sun was high and the day had taken on that familiar midday heat. Naturally, that meant one thing — ice cream.

A stop at Rio Ice Cream Parlour, a Jaffna institution, felt non-negotiable. Famous across Sri Lanka, it’s the kind of place that locals and visitors alike seem to gravitate towards, and for good reason.

Jaffna Archaeological Museum

Refreshed, we continued to the Jaffna Archaeological Museum. It’s small — easy to miss, even — but quietly fascinating.

Inside are artefacts collected from across the peninsula, each piece offering a glimpse into the layers of history that define this region. And with free entry, it feels like one of Jaffna’s more understated treasures.

Casuarina Beach

From there, we drove north to Casuarina Beach, about 45 minutes from the city. The road stretches out, the landscape slowly opening up, until you reach soft white sand and shallow, gentle waters.

There’s a small entry fee, but it comes with basic facilities. The beach itself was almost empty — peaceful, though scattered with washed-up litter, a reminder of the less idyllic realities that even beautiful places carry.

Jaffna Fort

We returned to Jaffna city, in time to visit the Jaffna fort.

Jaffna Fort stands as a quiet witness to centuries of colonial influence — first built by the Portuguese in 1618, later expanded by the Dutch, and eventually taken over by the British.

Jaffna Public Library

Not far from there is the Jaffna Public Library, once considered one of the finest in South Asia. In the early 1980s, it was tragically burned during the riots that preceded the Sri Lankan civil war — a loss that went far beyond books. Today, it has been rebuilt, and stepping into its reading rooms feels both peaceful and poignant.

Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil

We ended the day visiting a couple of temples in the heart of the city, including the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil, one of the most important Hindu temples in Sri Lanka, dedicated to Lord Skanda. The energy here is unmistakable — rhythmic, devotional, alive.